Over the last 5 years, changes to the Food Safety Act regarding the regulation of meat butchering and processing have forced many smaller, independent farmers to become much more imaginative in how they do business. Under the 2004 legislation, all animals killed for human consumption in BC must be slaughtered in a provincial or federally licensed facility, in the presence of a certified meat inspector. This has many small producers worried, since they will face two undesirable choices. Either they can ship their animals to be slaughtered and processed—often over long distances and at a much greater cost—or build their own certified facility. For many, both options are too expensive which has resulted in a significant decrease in small scale meat production and a threat to a well-established alternative to buying retail meat in BC; one that embodies the idea of a localized, face-to-face food system that many people endorse. However others are not so willing to relinquish their community responsibilities, even if it means circumventing the law; which brings me to my story.
Its 5:50 am as I walked towards the large driftwood gate signifying my arrival at the Edgehill Farm. Wedged between the shores of the Pacific and peaks of the Coastal Mountains this small scale family operated farm has long been a local source of organically raised and humanely butchered meat products. Having known owners Bill and Susan most of my life, and spending many of my summers helping their son David with his chores, I was caught off guard by the strong feeling of covertness this meeting assumed. Not wanting to draw attention to themselves or their farm, the Edgehill’s have asked I not reveal their given names.
“It’s not like we’re doing anything illegal,” said Bill when asked, “We’ve just sort of found a loophole which has allowed us to continue doing what we love; farming.”
The loophole Bill refers to has been a small change in how he represents his business. No longer just an independent farmer, Bill is now also the manager of an agricultural co-op, a signifier that allows him to continue butchering his farms livestock and feeding his community.
“Essentially, the animals are not mine. The chickens, ducks, pigs, lambs, and cattle all belong to the members of the co-op. Each person owns shares. So when an order is made and it comes time to butcher an animal, I am not technically selling the meat, it already belongs to the consumer.”
For Bill the issue lies in how Provincial Government perceives the importance of farming as only a financial matter, one that can only be solved through big business. “They use concerns over food safety to protect corporate interests. As if allowing big companies to profit by processing my meat will create confidence in BC farmers. It’s scientifically proven and officially documented that most related illnesses have been caused by meat from large scale operations.”
“It’s slanderous,” replied Susan, “this portrayal of the small scale farmer as unethical and irresponsible. We’re obviously not in it to get rich. Providing healthy food is our main concern.”
The small scale method, especially those that are more diversified is much more sustainable according to the Edgehill’s. On their farm, aside from livestock, they also grow a number of fruits and vegetables which feed both the family and the livestock. “It’s necessary, not just for our own needs, our planet is a finite resource” explained Susan. “Everything is connected, the land, the plants, the animals, us, we all have to work together.”
The Edgehill’s have also shared their ideas and experiences with a few other small scale farmers throughout the province and have received very positive feedback. “It’s important to support our fellow farmers,” stressed Bill, “communities all over this province are not only missing out on healthy local foods, but they are also losing valuable knowledge about sustainable practices.”
In recognizing the importance of regional production in creating food security, Bill doesn’t understand the corporate logic in food production.”Why do we continue to create a dependence on international trade? Why should I need to grow beef for American markets in order to pay for lamb imported from New Zealand? Why can’t I eat what’s in front of me?”
When asked about what consumers could do to improve the opportunities for local farmers the Edgehill’s stressed the importance of creating local demand. “The co-op has been very successful, but we have to be diligent,” explained Bill. “It’s a bit guerrilla, you know? We need to prove that sustainable local food systems are necessary but in a democratic way. “
When approached about the consequences of being caught Both Bill and Susan admitted they were taking a risk. “We could lose everything,” stated Bill. “Fines are upwards of $50,000 a day if they decide to pursue us. But to us it is worth it. The community, by helping create the co-op have demanded it, they prefer to know where their food comes from and how it was produced; they don’t get that from the big guys.”
“It’s about doing things right,” says Susan. “We need to do things in a way which is healthy for our planet, if we do that everyone benefits. Even it means twisting the rules a little. A little risk is worth a healthier future.”
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